Aug
08
2009
by Mr Cubes
Kitwanga to Terrace (63.8 miles)
Total Miles: 2,081.7
I had been looking forward to today's ride ever since I decided to head to Prince Rupert instead of Prince George. One rider I met had described it as the 'best cycle ride in the whole of Canada' and as it followed the river for almost 150 miles was promising to be flat and easy. There was also the additional incentive of a city at the end of the day's riding which had suddenly become hugely appealing after so long in the wilderness. So the fact it turned into one of my most miserable days on the tour really shouldn't have come as too much of a surprise.
Kitwanga sits at the junction of the Cassiar and Yellowhead highways and as soon as I turned west onto Yellowhead the wind was against me. There was also very low lying cloud everywhere which gave the effect of cycling in the rain and prevented any good views of the magnificent mountain range I was cycling around. It was also very busy which meant I had to concentrate on my line and stay pretty much as far over into the shoulder as I could with all the glass and gravel. Still, it was flat...
Despite the problems caused by the weather, the real frustration was that mentally I switched off for the day. I left Kitwanga without filling up on water meaning I had only 1.5 litres for the journey, I was also wearing my casual shorts which have riveted seams. Well, you can guess the problems that causes during seven hours in the saddle.
After stopping for lunch at a rest area on the river to have noodles I suddenly became quite depressed and lonely. It had been sometime since I had been in the company of friends and I was starting to question what on earth I was doing. My water levels had reached critical as well, though I still thought I could get to Terrace without having to start using the filter again. After a few more miles I passed Usk Pioneer Chapel, a tiny little church in the middle of nowhere. I took shelter from the wind there for a few minutes, also hoping there was a source of water but unfortunately it didn't. I signed the guestbook though and then remembered I had an apple in my bag which would at least quench my thirst temporarily.
After fifty miles of cycling, just ten miles before Terrace, I came to Kleanza Creek Campground which thankfully had a water pump and my water problems were finally relieved. This looked to be a really nice campground too and several families were having picnics and playing in the creek. The combination of seeing people and being able to drink freely again was enough to lift my spirits and so I pushed on to Terrace. On the outskirts of the city was a huge map which allowed me to find out where the municipal campground was and so I made that my first destination. After having spent a couple of weeks staying at municipal campgrounds in France I expected this to be just a few dollars, but was surprised to learn they were charging $16 here. A reasonable rate for a family filled RV, but rather excessive for a solo bicycle traveller. It was a remarkably attractive site though, located on a wooded island 
where a local artist had carved faces into many of the huge cottonwood trees. The rest of Terrace was not so attractive, though this may have been due to it being entirely cloaked in cloud the whole time I was there. I did make my first visit to an A&W fast food restaurant though, in order to try out their 'famous' root beer float. Sadly, it wasn't as good as their marketing.
The whole of Terrace was also covered in signs proclaiming that 'Terrace is Hockeyville 2009' after winning a national vote to be awarded the title of Canada's most fervent supporter of ice hockey. Knowing nothing about the sport whatsoever it was hard to be impressed. I'm not sure what I was hoping for after spending so long in the wild, but unfortunately Terrace wasn't it. As the rain continued to fall, I was already dreaming of Prince Rupert and what may be on offer there.