Sep
30
2009
by Mr Cubes
Elk Prairie to Eureka (47.7 miles)
Eureka to Redcrest (55.6 miles)
Total Miles: 3,309.7
Over the last few days I had gotten into a routine of waking early and trying to get plenty of miles in before the day really heated up. As I was packing up my wet tent from the overnight rain this morning I notice another cyclist had arrived late the previous evening and was sleeping under a simple tarp. Would have liked to have seen that in Alaska.
I left the site at around 8am, just as the others all started to stir. It is starting to get quite cold at night even though the daily high is uncomfortable for cycling in.
As I cycled around the Elk Prairie after which the campsite was named, there were plenty of elk and deer grazing and they all seemed quite happy to let me ride by. The elk were a bit far away, even with my zoom lens but the deer were really close (at least I think they are deer…maybe they are elk, it’s not really my area).
After stopping for a second breakfast in the dive village of Orick, the road returned to the coast which meant more hills and then a huge lagoon. At the top of the third big hill of the day was Trinidad. A large town with quite a bit to look at. After failing again to get a map of California in both the gas station and the supermarket, I went for lunch in a diner by the sea. There were a couple of teenagers sitting next to me who were texting impossible questions to one of the answering services. They started with “Is there really a God?”, moving on to ask about the beginnings of the Universe and then went abstract with “Do you know my friend Dave Best?”. Annoying at first, but in the end I was trying hard not to laugh.
The cycle path then left the 101 again to weave through some open countryside and I noticed that although there are signs leading you off the highway, you might then be left to make your own decisions. I made a couple of wrong guesses before finding the right path over a huge footbridge. Confusing, to say the least.
After passing through the very busy town of Arcata, home to Humboldt State University and what seemed to be several million students, the path rejoined the 101 on the way into Eureka. Just as I was starting to tire a little a Kampground of America appeared which would fit the bill perfectly. These campsites are similar to the Eurocamps popular in Europe and still cheaper than nearly anything I found in Alaska or Canada.
Eureka is a big place and was very busy as I tried to ride through it the following morning. One particularly rushed lorry driver repeatedly beeped at me until I rode up onto the pavement. I gave him a nice European wave in return. Feeling a little bit miffed, my mood improved when I went to the visitor centre to pick up a free book showing all the cycle routes on the 101 in Northern California. This meant I didn’t need a map for awhile and I also could plan out campsites and know when the hills were coming (though this isn’t always helpful). Things got even better when I stopped at Ray’s Supermarket and was told it was Free Donut Wednesday – all customers get a free donut with no obligations! Land of the free and all that.
Was a hot day and not much to see or do, so when I saw a billboard advertising the Victorian Town of Ferndale, I was tempted to have a look and stop there for lunch. Unfortunately the town was a five mile journey off the 101, but am glad I went. Many beautiful buildings and a nice atmosphere and one of the best lunches I’d had for quite some time (be sure to visit the Victorian Inn).
It was the same five mile road back to the 101 and it was also straight into a strong headwind which meant the whole ten mile detour took almost two hours. 
The next few miles on the 101 were very dull and very hot. I’d been looking for the famous ‘Avenue of the Giants’, part of the original highway that is now a quiet side road to the ever expanding 101. The first thing of interest on this fascinating 31-mile detour is The Immortal Tree. Proven to be over 950 years old and known to have survived lightning strikes, floods, fires and attempts by loggers to chop it down, it is a shining example of the many huge redwoods covering the entire area. The downside of this area is the huge redwood needles that scatter the roadside and once back on the bike I realised I’d suffered another puncture. Luckily my campsite was only a couple more miles up the road and for some reason I am yet to understand, it was totally empty. Sleeping amongst these giant trees once again in total silence was a beautiful experience and one I continue to treasure. I was hoping they would continue all the way to San Francisco…