Jul
11
2009
by Mr Cubes
Twin Lakes to Hidden Valley (74.3 miles)
Total Miles: 1,276.3
Twin Lakes is without doubt the best looking campsite I had yet to stay in, so it seemed only fair that it came at the cost of the worst night's sleep. Once the noisy neighbours had finally settled down and I drifted 
off to sleep then the noise of the highway, no more than ten feet from my tent, would periodically wake me. Still, I felt good as I got ready for the day's action and sat down for breakfast with Nils and Carolin. I wanted to get going quite early so that I could make the journey to Whitehorse in one day, so I said my goodbyes to them and hit the road. First port of call was Braeburn Lodge which several people had recommended on account of their magnificent cinnamon buns. This was verified on the way by Elizabeth, a Belgian Cyclist on route to Inuvik who had just left there. Unfortunately, I don't like cinnamon buns, so although they looked amazing (at $8.50 each they need to be) I went for their Super Burger. It said on the menu that their burgers were ideal to share and when it arrived I saw why. Made with practically a whole loaf of bread, this was a mountain of a burger and I wasn't too sure where to start. It took me so long to eat it that I was still finishing it off when Nils and Caro came in over an hour later and so they joined me and ordered their own lunches.
After this we set off together and cycled up a pretty steep hill to Fox Lake Burn rest area where there are the remains of a fire from 1998 which was started by careless campers with lots of information about the incident as well as a trail leading through the dead tree remains. Quite an eerie place. I needed to up the pace if I was to get to Whitehorse though, so I said yet more farewells to them and was back on my way. Nearly all of this section of the Klondike Highway runs alongside the most beautiful lakes and it was a fantastic day to be out riding. There were only slight rolling hills and the road condition was the best it had been since leaving Fairbanks. After weeks of not having met a single cyclist going the other way it seemed that I was now meeting several each day and just before Fox Lake I met Frederic from France who had landed at 
Whitehorse Airport, got changed and immediately started cycling north. He looked pretty jaded though which isn't surprising after a long haul flight - hope he got to wherever he was headed! As we were chatting the rain started to fall and then got heavier and heavier until it was a full on thunderstorm. Some of the raindrops coming down were as big as my Braeburn Burger...well, almost. It didn't last too long though and I was soon on the outskirts of Whitehorse and wondering what reception I would get from this family of strangers that I hoped were expecting me. Shortly before this I was tempted into the 2 mile downhill ride to Mom's Sourdough Bakery which was closed, so I had to cycle the 2 miles back uphill and empty handed.
As I cycled the last few miles to the address I had been given I passed by an overweight man in roller blades and a Canadian speed skating suit (yep, the really tight one), attempting to skate up the hill I was coming down. Maybe Whitehorse was that kind of town...
I pulled up to Shelley and Lynne's place and was greeted by three huge dogs barking and rushing towards me. After a brief sniff they carried on running straight out of the yard into the road. Following them was Phill, who briefly introduced himself as a friend of the family staying there for the summer and then ran off after the dogs himself. With the instructions to set up anywhere and make myself at home I was a bit confused but looked around their yard for a likely camping spot. When Phill came back he told me that everyone had gone up to Dawson for the weekend and they would probably be back tomorrow. Not quite what I was expecting, but was so relieved to be there and just happy to have access to cold running drinking water and the chance to use a clean flushing toilet again. I was introduced to Phill's girlfriend Margaret who was also staying there and Lynne's husband Erik who had stayed home for the weekend but had been out playing golf. Tomorrow would be a day off and a chance to do some shopping and get myself clean. I was pretty excited about that...